Coping with the Copenhagen Food Scene
You don't grow up hearing about the food in Copenhagen. You don't have a zillion Danish restaurants in your town (do you even have one?). And yet, Copenhagen is, without a doubt, home to some of the best food I've ever had in my life. (And I went when Noma was closed!!) Our two days in Copenhagen were basically a nonstop eating marathon (and I wouldn't have had it any other way). My favorite spots are below...
Meyers Bageri – We started our eat-inerary with coffee and pastries from this popular Copenhagen chain! I had the Kanelsnurre, which is basically a cinnamon roll minus the icing. Very tasty!
Geranium – I love all things floral, so I had high hopes for this three Michelin star restaurant named for a flower. Chef Rasmus Kofoed and business partner Soren Ledet (both former sous chefs at Noma) did not let me down in the slightest – it was my favorite tasting menu of all time. It’s hard to find words to describe how incredible and inspiring this meal was, all I can say is that weeks later I can’t stop thinking about it. Each dish had a floral note to it, so I really felt like the menu and my palate were made for each other. Literal soul mates. I’ve never identified with a restaurant so much and I am so grateful I got the chance to experience it. Thank you, Geranium, for making my wildest dreams come true with your restaurant.
Mother – One of Kristin and my favorite nights from our entire Europe trip was our dinner at Mother, a super popular wood-fired pizza joint in the Meatpacking District. We sat outside on communal picnic tables on a Friday night until the sunset turned to twinkling stars – it was such a wonderful atmosphere that we never wanted to leave. An Italian band played live music while we enjoyed copious amounts of wine, authentic Italian appetizers, absolutely incredible pizza, and, best of all, wonderful conversation with some incredibly nice Danish locals. By the end of the meal (and many bottles of wine) these people felt like our family – that’s the kind of effect that a meal at Mother has on its customers.
Granola – We had a yummy breakfast at this cute bistro in Vesterbro. I enjoyed pancakes with fresh fruit and a deep amber syrup, and Kristin loved her oatmeal with berries and nuts. Cute spot.
Torvehallerne Food Hall – We came to this beautiful food hall with one goal in mind: to get tacos from Hija de Sanchez. Tacos in Copenhagen, you ask? Why, yes. Because when former Noma pastry chef Rosio Sanchez opens a taco shop, you go. The tacos were some of the best I’ve had (yes, I live in California) and Torvehallerne was such a fun market to walk around. I could easily spend a day eating here.
Café Atelier September – I thoroughly enjoyed my cappuccino from this trendy coffee shop near the Nyhavn Canals.
Papiroen a.k.a. Paper Island Food Hall a.k.a Copenhagen Street Food – Just across the river on “Paper Island” (in what was once a paper factory) is the coolest food hall I’ve ever been to. Tons of stalls fill a giant warehouse, serving pretty much every food you could possibly dream of. Outside the warehouse there are plenty of options for quenching your thirst – we opted for a bottle of rosé as we reclined in lounge chairs on the river and watched the sun set.
Marchal – Of course, we had to end our last night in Europe with a Michelin-starred meal! In the beautiful D’Angleterre hotel is this gorgeous French restaurant from chef Andreas Bagh. We started our meal with truffle puffs – no, it’s not a Harry Potter house, it’s a puff pastry bite filled with cheese and topped with a fresh truffle. Yum! Perhaps my favorite dish, however, was what I nicknamed the “fancy corndog” – a beef tenderloin wrapped in brioche, topped with fried bone marrow, and fresh shaved truffles. Our trip ended on a sweet note (literally) with a soufflé topped with elderflower ice cream.
Noma – I was super bummed I wasn’t able to go to Noma while in Copenhagen – their restaurant is currently closed as they are moving locations and opening in a new space. This restaurant won World’s Best Restaurant on four separate occasions, and Chef René Redzepi has been completely changing the culinary game with his innovative menus and long-term pop-ups in different countries. I will definitely be back to try Noma someday, but I took a picture with the old restaurant to tide me over in the meantime. :)
Relae/ Baest/ Manfreds – Chef Christian Puglisi (formerly of Noma) has quite the restaurant empire in Norrebro. I couldn’t snag a reservation at two Michelin star Relae on such short notice, but it is at the very top of my hit list for my next visit. Closely following on my list for next time is the tasting menu at Manfreds (his more casual wine bar across the street), as well as pizza from Baest, his dough-licious ‘za joint around the corner.
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